Confused about your strip? Don’t plug in until you’re sure it’s surge protected.

Surge-protected power strips usually feature labels, indicator lights, and safety certifications like ETL or UL.

Your devices — and your safety — depend on using the right type. Here’s how to check.

Does the Power Strip Say "Surge Protection"?

Start by reading what’s printed — it’s often right in front of you.

Most surge protectors will say “surge protection” or list a joule rating on the body or packaging.

Look for the Right Words and Numbers

Many generic power strips look identical to surge protectors. But true surge protectors will mention:

• “Surge protection”
• “Joule rating” (like 450J or 2450J)
• “Protective components inside”
• Model numbers starting with “SP” or containing “SURGE”

I remember a customer who imported several thousand “power strips” from a random supplier. None had joule ratings. When tested for ETL, they failed. All because they didn’t confirm surge protection upfront.

What to Look For

If there’s no label at all, don’t risk it.

Is There a Surge Protection Indicator Light?

This little light tells a big story.

Most surge protectors have a light labeled “Protected” that shows the unit is working.

What That Light Means

If the light is on, it means the internal components — usually MOVs — are intact and active. If the light is off, your devices are exposed.

Not all power strips have this feature. But the best ones do. In our Wakeup line, we always include a clear protection indicator so users can monitor their strip’s status.

Troubleshooting Guide

Ask your supplier if your model has a protection light — if they say no and there’s no marking, it’s likely just a basic strip.

Does It Have a Joule Rating?

If there’s no joule rating, it’s not really a surge protector.

Joule rating indicates how much energy the strip can absorb before failing.

What Ratings Mean

Surge protectors are not all the same. The joule rating shows their ability to defend against surges. For basic office use, 450J might be enough. For home theaters or gaming PCs, look for 1200J or more.

At Wakeup, we offer models ranging from 450J to 2450J. We help clients choose based on what devices they’re protecting — laptops, TVs, routers, etc.

Joule Rating Guide

No joule rating? Then it’s either not tested or not designed for surge protection.

Does It Have a Certification Like ETL, UL, or cETL?

No third-party mark? That’s a red flag.

True surge protectors are tested and certified by agencies like ETL or UL.

Why Certifications Matter

Certifications mean someone has tested the strip for actual surge protection. Without it, you’re trusting the factory’s word. And unfortunately, some sellers cut corners.

I’ve seen listings with fake UL logos — but no real listing number. At Wakeup, we publish every UL or ETL certificate with our product pages and catalogs. This protects both you and your customers.

Recognized Certifications

Always verify the certification number on the official database. Don’t rely on packaging alone.

What If There’s No Obvious Clue?

Sometimes you just don’t know — then it’s time to dig deeper.

If labeling, lights, and certifications are missing, check the model online or open the housing.

Tips for Digging Deeper

• Search the model number — Check manufacturer specs
• Ask your supplier — A good supplier should send datasheets or test reports
• Look inside (if safe) — Surge protectors contain MOVs, fuses, and thermal links

I once disassembled a customer’s sample that claimed 1000J protection. Inside? Nothing but plastic and copper. No MOVs. No thermal fuse. Total fraud. That customer later switched to our cETL-listed line.

Internal Parts to Look For

As a buyer, don’t assume. Always verify what you’re selling to protect your brand and your customers.

Conclusion

Check for labels, lights, joule ratings, and certifications — or it’s just a power strip.